Removing Bathroom Tiles - Bathroom Shower Tile Layout and Installation
Removing Bathroom Tiles - For a professional tile installation job, good planning and proper layout are a must. The surfaces must be smooth and free of defects. Fix all high and low spots before proceeding, and make sure that nail heads are countersunk slightly below the surface.

Horizontal Working Lines

Layout lines must be accurate and easy to see. The horizontal lines are drawn first, and the procedure depends on whether your tub or shower pan is level.

Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is level to within 1/8″, measure and mark your horizontal line from the high point of the tub. The 1/8″ difference (if there is a difference) can be hidden with grout. Measure up from the lip of the tub, the width of a tile plus 1/8″. Make a line using a level and a straight edge, along the back wall and the two end walls.

Out of Level Tub or Shower Pan - If the tub is not level to 1/8″, mark your horizontal line from the low point. Determine a level line just like for a level tub and run a batten along the bottom of the line. It is usually best to nail a straight wooden batten so that the top of the batten is set to the horizontal line. This provides a level surface for the tile. After all the tile is laid, remove the batten and install the bottom row. You will have to cut the bottom row of tiles to fit along the uneven top edge of the tub or pan.

Vertical Working Lines

Setup the tiles so each edge (border) tile is the same width on each end, and more than half a tile wide. To do this, first locate the mid-point on the back wall and mark it on the horizontal line. Then place a row of loose tiles along the back of the tub, making sure that a joint matches up with the center mark. The distance left at each end gives you the dimension of your border tiles. If the end tiles turn out to be larger than half a tile, make the vertical center line all the way up the wall using a level and straight edge.

If the end tiles are less than half the width of a tile, move the center line exactly one half the width of a tile to the left or right. By making this adjustment you’ll avoid having very narrow tiles on the ends.

The vertical for the side walls are usually done after the back wall has been tiled. Just position the vertical working lines to minimize or eliminate the number of tiles to be cut and locate any cut tiles in the corner.

Determine where you are going to put the soap dish or other accessories, and mark the locations. These will be installed last. If your soap dish fits into the wall, cut the hole before you spread adhesive, and position it to minimize or even eliminate the need to cut any tiles that will go around it.

Apply Adhesive

Make sure the adhesive is waterproof. Don’t make the mistake of using non-waterproof adhesive or your tiles will loosen and fall off after repeated exposure to moisture. Before you apply the adhesive, carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions for drying time so you don’t spread any more than you can work with before it sets.

Spread the adhesive using the flat side of a trowel. Once applied on a wide area, hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle with notched side down and create wide grooves in the adhesive. The peak of the adhesive should be as thick or nearly as thick as the thickness of the tile. Be careful not to completely obscure your working lines, and leave blank spaces for the installation accessories you may want to install.

Installing the Tile

Set the first tile along one side of the vertical and horizontal working lines. Use a gentle twisting motion when setting each tile. If you are working with a batten, make sure that the tiles are firmly seated on it. Without the batten, line the top edge of the tile along the horizontal line.

Tap each tile (very gently!) with a rubber mallet as you go. For spacing, most standard square tiles have small lugs on the sides. These lugs act as spacers and are covered by grout.